Relaxer Stretch Guide: How To Maintain New Growth

          As women we share one common goal. We all want longer hair! Natural gals have it a bit easier in the hair growth process. For us relaxed girls, however, things get a little more complicated after 6-8weeks. I always found it hard to manage my new growth.  Being a Caribbean girl, I am a mixture of multiple races. My mixture has resulted in me having extremely thick 4B/4C hair (Heck! If 4D were an option I'd place myself in that category).  For many years I couldn't figure out what to do to better manage my new growth. Then one day it hit me like a light bulb moment. New growth is natural hair, natural hair needs moisture, so treat it like natural hair! I have since recently incorporated a few new techniques and even some natural products into my hair regimen to help manage my new growth. It's so simple that I can't even believe I didn't try them sooner.

Apply moisturizing conditioner
Moisture is the most important ingredient on a healthy hair journey. With that said, we have to keep in mind that our new growth, although new and unharmed by chemical, needs to be replenished with moisture as well. Ensure that you're using a moisturizing conditioner and not a protein conditioner. The new growth contains enough protein naturally that has not been broken down by chemicals. Simply section hair, apply conditioner directly to new growth (while conditioning the rest of the hair shaft), and comb through while its wet. The hair becomes softer and less prone to breakage when styling.

Apply moisturizer/ leave in

Personally, I apply leave-in conditioner and moisturizer as in my normal moisturize & seal routine. This may seem like a lot, but I'm pretty sure my hair thanks me every time I do it. You don't need to apply a lot depending on the amount of new growth. I simply section my hair into four and work the products into each section. I follow this up by moisturizing the rest of my hair shaft, combing and sealing the ends. Sometimes, I would apply a cream or curl custard for extra moisture and to elongate the curls. This product also helps in creating a defined braid out style.

Protect the line of demarcation

Apart from moisturizing your new growth, it's super important to protect the line of demarcation. The line of demarcation is where the new growth meets the relaxed hair. This is the most fragile part of the hair. This step is also essential as it helps in length retention. I apply an anti-breakage leave-in conditioner from root to end or from root to line of demarcation.

Hot oil treatment

Hot oil treatments are like the Holy Grail treatment for your hair. Not only does it repair split ends but it also stimulates the scalp to promote hair growth. Thus, it promotes thick and healthy new growth. And who doesn't want that right?  

Use detangler spray

Detangler spray helps so much when that new growth kicks in. Because we're working with two different textures of hair, it becomes a little harder to comb the hair. You just have to be more careful in the detangling process. I don't know how they do it, but detangling sprays just go on the hair and work its magic. Combing through your hair becomes a breeze. Keep in mind that you should be detangling from end to root to remove any possible knots throughout the hair shaft.

By using these tips, I've seen a tremendous improvement in the manageability of my hair. It's easier to comb and style. The comb simply glides through from root to end (after carefully detangling). I also experience much less breakage from the root. Happy to say I'm on the right track in my healthy hair journey. I guess the next step is length retention...


Til Next Time. Xoxo, Shanz

PRODUCT REVIEW: Shea Moisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen, Grow & Restore Treatment Masque

       

          Ok, can I just start by saying Shea Moisture takes the award for longest product names ever? Like seriously, I got tired just from typing the title. I discovered the Shea Moisture JBCO Strengthen, Grow & Restore Treatment Masque from the lifestyle and hair vlogger, Charisse Christine. The product was featured in a video entitled "Charisse's Relaxed Hair Must-Haves". I loved how healthy and strong her relaxed hair looked so I was convinced I needed that product in my regimen. It was the first purchase I had ever made from the Shea Moisture brand. Shea Moisture, being a brand associated with natural hair, claims that this JBCO Strengthen, Grow & Restore line is also suitable for chemically processed, colour treated and heat styled hair. The masque specifically contains Shea Butter, Peppermint and Keratin which each aids in the strengthening, growth and restoration of hair follicles. I have very few complaints about this product. As a matter of fact, I quite like it as you'll soon discover.

     Cons     

          Shea Moisture's Strengthen, Grow & Restore masque does contain proteins; namely Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein and Hydrolyzed Keratin; one of which is in the first ten list of ingredients. Because my hair is so sensitive to protein, I found it best not to use this product every week. When I used it once a week for a month, my hair became quite stringy and sticky on the third week's washing. Thus, I use it every other week or once a month in alternation with a moisturizing conditioner. There is also the concern of Shea Moisture's high prices. This product undoubtedly falls into the pricey category. However, it is totally worth the price if you're willing to spend the money.

     Pros     

          Now we've reached the part where I'd like to fast forward to the end. And I mean that in the best way possible. Every draft I've written thus far just sounds so redundant. What I'm really trying to say is, This Product Actually Produces Every Benefit It Claims! Let's make a checklist:

• replenish moisture and soften while strengthening hair? Yes!
• helps promote hair growth by supporting hair's elasticity? Yes!!
• reduces the appearance of breakage? Oh yes!
• and Shedding? Yesss!
• stimulates the scalp for an invigorating experience? Ohh yes!
• leaves hair soft, manageable and shiny? Uhmm, how do you say.... YES!

It's all there already. I literally could not state it any better. I have experienced every single benefit stated by this product and I'm totally satisfied with it. It has improved the health of my hair by a ten-fold. The Shea Moisture JBCO Treatment Masque is hands down one of the best deep conditioners to ever grace my hair. In terms of its deep treatment qualities, it works well with and without heat. For those with low porosity hair, however, it is recommended to use heat. Otherwise, it can be left on the hair for up to an hour and equal results should be noticed.

As previously mentioned, the price of this product is high. On the plus side, however, one container lasts a very long time. I've had my treatment masque for about a year so far and its just now finishing. A little (or even a lot) definitely goes a long way with this conditioner. The cool thing about it is that, even after heavily scooping it out, by the following use it magically appears to have an even surface. It makes you feel like the product is never ending. Quite frankly, it might as well be, given the length of time it lasts. It also has an amazing scent. And you know I'm hard to please when it comes to scents. I would describe it as a warm, custard-like scent. It definitely smells edible (but in a good way). The scent even lasts long after you've dried and styled your hair. I almost fall in love with my hair every time I catch a whiff of it.

I am incredibly pleased with this deep treatment masque from Shea Moisture. I'm also encouraged to try other products from their Jamaican Black Castor Oil line. My hair responds very well to this Strengthen, Grow & Restore masque. I definitely look forward to a long, healthy hair journey with Shea Moisture.

Til Next Time. Xoxo, Shanz


Also see: PRODUCT REVIEW: Shea Moisture Yucca & Plantain Anti-Breakage Strengthening Styling Milk http://letshairthis.blogspot.com/2016/06/product-review-shea-moisture-yucca.html

Protective Hairstyle: Marley Twists

This was my first time trying Marley Braids. It was a huge change for me but I ended up really liking it. I was 4 months post relaxer at the time and in great need of a protective yet cool hairstyle. It was Carnival time in Trinidad and I wanted to look anything but basic. So I had my friends vote between black and burgundy braids, and well, we can obviously see the clear winner.

Initially, I intended to do box braids, however, there were no stores selling the colour in X-pression Braid Synthetic Hair. I ended up finding the brand Janet Noir Afro Twist Braid in the colour, BURG. It is Synthetic Kankelon hair with a human hair feel. I used 6 packs to complete my entire head. 

This was a great protective style that lasted 2 months. I did wash and condition my hair whilst in the style, and moisturized using a spray bottle. On the take down, I was pleased to notice that my hair was quite soft and well moisturized. I did however experience a great deal of shedding but that was due to the lengthy time with the style.

STORY TIME: Inversion Method FAIL

       Like most women out there, if not all, I want longer hair. And I want it Now! Realistically, I know that's not possible because my hair grows about half an inch every two months. Since I never remember to take my vitamins, hair vitamins like Biotin was out of the question. Therefore, I decided the next best option would be the inversion method. I had been interested in this method for a couple years but never got around to trying it. It's fast and easy and claims to bring guaranteed results of an inch of growth in just 7 days.  So I did my research, watched tons of YouTube videos and when I got the gist of it, eventually tried it. I used pure, unrefined coconut oil to massage into my scalp for about 1-2 minutes. After this, I flipped my head over and held this position for exactly 4 minutes as recommended. I timed it to ensure that I didn't cross the time limit (as that can have harmful effects). Then, I slowly rose up and went about my day. This process was repeated for 7 days consecutively. 

When I tried the inversion method I was already 11 weeks post relaxer and had an inch of new growth. I had hoped that the extra inch of growth would give a decent increase in length at my next relaxer (which I planned to be in week 15). On the 7th day of the treatment, I followed the same procedure and waited until day 8 to properly check the results. Upon washing my hair on the 8th day I discovered, to my dismay, that I had no more than the growth of 11 weeks post relaxer. I measured with a ruler and even sent pictures to a friend but both proved I still only had 1 inch of new growth. I was quite disappointed since I had such faith in the method. It has been 2 weeks now since I attempted the inversion method. My hair has grown an extra half inch, however I cannot confirm if it was due to that. Typically, those who have done the inversion method saw the results of an inch of growth by the final day. Determined to know where I fell short, I considered my possible limitations (a step to which I thank my years of writing lab reports). 

First of all, I critiqued the action of flipping over my head. Some days I would just bend my head down (as if in deep prayer), whereas other days I'd sit at the edge of the bed and completely bend over. The success of this method weighs heavily on the ability of the blood to flow toward the scalp. Therefore, I recommend properly "inverting" your head to ensure proper blood flow to the scalp. Secondly, the oil was not heated prior to application. I'll admit I overlooked this step during my research as the massage should help warm the oil on the scalp. Also, some videos I watched did not specify the need to heat the oil. However, I highly recommend doing so as the warm oil helps promote hair growth by penetrating the scalp (as experienced by hot oil treatments). Lastly, the massage technique has great influence on the effects of this method. Because my scalp tends to be quite itchy, I sometimes unconsciously substituted gentle massaging with light scratching (and that's a big No-No!)There are many videos online on how to properly massage the scalp so I recommend checking them out before attempting this method. 

Although the inversion method was unsuccessful for me, I would like to try it again. Because I have seen positive results on others, I want to improve on my mistakes in attempt to achieve similar results. I do plan to do a relaxer pretty soon so I would have to wait about a month to try this method again. If you plan on doing the inversion method, please consider all the steps carefully. Unlike my experience, I hope it works out well for you. 

Til Next Time. Xoxo, Shanz

PRODUCT REVIEW: ORS Hair Repair Intense Moisture Creme

I stumbled upon this product at the local pharmacy. I was about 9 weeks post relaxer and was in desperate need of a deeply moisturizing product that won't simply coat my hair. I was tossing between a new deep conditioner or a moisturizer but ended up taking the moisturizer instead. The product claimed to provide moisture and softness to dry hair and scalp, as well as, provide a healthy-looking shine. This immediately drew my attention as it hit all my check points, and as well included a mix of avocado and coconut oil. In this review I will start with the cons as they aren't as restricting, and work my way into the positives of this Intense Moisturizing Creme. 

 Cons: 

• I detest the smell! I seriously can't stand the scent of this product. It has a sort of pungent smell. That is part of the reason I couldn't decide between the deep conditioner and this product. It honestly smells like a household cleaning detergent to me. I use this product sparingly, like when I don't have anywhere to go, so I don't personally smell like it. 

• It doesn't work well on the scalp. The product claims to provide moisture to the hair and scalp. When I applied it to my scalp at night it did provide immediate moisturizing benefits. However, by the following day my scalp was extremely itchy. I probably won't use this to massage into my scalp again. 

Pros:

• When this thing says it moisturizes, Believe me it Moisturizes the hair! First of all, it has a very thick consistency. My hair adores thick moisturizers that can soak into the hair and leave a pretty shine. At the time, while I was so far post relaxer, this Hair Repair creme helped my hair to be more manageable and moisturized for at least 2 days. It worked well as a pre braid-out moisturizer, as well as, after air drying. I decided to try it out on my flat ironed hair as well and it provided the same soft, well-moisturized results. 

• Overnight treatment. I tried out this Intense Moisturizing Creme as a night time treatment to see how my hair would react. In the past, with other product brands, my hair did not produce the claimed results of overnight use. With this Hair Repair product, I was surprised at the softness and manageability of my hair (flat ironed and air dried) when I woke the following day. Of course, there was that pungent smell lurking in my head but the results soon outweighed that.

• Strong, Healthy Hair. It must also be noted that although the hair was softened, it was in no way prone to breakage or lacking in strength. The Hair Repair Intense Moisture Creme also contains proteins such as hydrolyzed keratin and hydrolyzed wheat protein to help strengthen dry, damaged hair. 

• Softens New Growth. Along with my previously relaxed hair being unmanageable, it is quite difficult to control my new growth as well. I applied this product to my new growth in sections and experienced an increase in softness and manageability. I was able to detangle my hair much easier from root to ends. 

Disclaimer: For those who are interested in natural products, this may not be the product for you. The ORS Hair Repair Intense Moisturizing Creme does in fact contain petrolatum and alcohol. However, water and coconut oil are of the first few ingredients, appearing even before the alcohols and petrolatum. The product also contains glycerin, olive oil and green tea extract. I have been able to overlook the ingredients because the product works so effectively. It is definitely worth the try. 

I would definitely recommend this product. I have seen great results in such a short space of time. I also continued using this Intense Moisturizing Creme on my freshly relaxed hair in smaller amounts. As mentioned, my only issue with this moisturizer is its smell. I wish the manufacturers would change it in time because I really like the product and will continue to use it when necessary. 

Til Next Time. Xoxo, Shanz

Back to Natural?

It's obvious that natural hair is trending now. Whether girls genuinely wish to embrace their roots or just fall into the trend, its very noticeable how quickly this natural hair trend is spreading. Honestly speaking I think it's great that women of African descent are ditching the 'creamy crack' and showing the world that black hair is beautiful. However, would I drastically drop everything just to go back natural for a sense of freedom, empowerment or whatever other reasons women come up with these days? No.

I refuse to join the crowd. It's so crazy how women with relaxed hair that just need a little TLC are giving up in a second and going back natural. Like, are you'll truly prepared to deal with your natural hair? Do you remember how to care for your hair in its natural state? Are you planning to take better care for your natural hair than you did your relaxed hair? Will you get fedup of breaking combs again and reach for the relaxer kit? Do you really want to wear a mini afro until probably 3 years later when your hair grows to a decent length? Does this look fit your lifestyle or your personal style? These are some of the questions women should be considering before they drastically (or intentionally) decide to go back natural. I'm not saying there's anything wrong with the change, but it is a huge step that should be carefully considered rather than be a quick escape. 

Personally, I have goals for my hair (in its relaxed state). I have a hair timeline which does conclude with going natural, as well as, going ras (aka dreadlocks). For now, however,  I enjoy the freedom of relaxed hair and personally like the styles I can achieve with relaxed hair. I'm definitely not ditching that for a fro right now! My hair is very healthy and I intend to upkeep that. As previously mentioned on my About page, I hastily relaxed my hair on the day of a big event because I simply could not comb my hair! I was about 15 years old at the time and although it was not planned I always knew in my heart that I did not want to wear braids and canerows for the rest of my life. My hair was simply too thick! That's the reason I even accepted the hasty decision to relax my hair that day; and to this day it is still the reason I choose to maintain my relaxed hair as best as I can and not follow the natural hair trend (because if you didn't realize already, I'm not easily swayed by trends lol ). I watch pictures of girls and women with their big afros and I'm actually intrigued by the styles they can achieve with such a massive amount of hair. I laugh too because I know I would trump all of them if I decided to unleash my natural mane! Haha. However, I remember the texture of my hair very well and it's not that easily manageable. Also, I live in the hot Caribbean and there is no way I want to walk around with a big sweaty afro. At the end of the day, that's simply not the look I personally want to portray right now. As a matter of fact, I have been able to achieve some of those styles with my relaxed hair, so it's a win win for me! 

On the topic of hasty decisions, I find many girls have relaxed their hair in this way as well. We use the relaxer as an escape from the norm; and now some women are using the natural trend to escape relaxed hair either for a genuine change or a chance to start over; and well of course they're those escaping the fact that they've neglected to properly care for their relaxed hair. But thinking back on it, most girls fall into relaxed hair without even knowing how to care for it. It took me at least 10 years and I'm still learning. However, with the help of various blogs and Youtube channels, I honestly hope that women learn how to care for their natural hair and give it the time and effort it deserves (Lord knows they'll need patience. Phew!) As I said, I don't mind seeing women embrace their roots, but at least do it for the right reasons, and put in the work necessary to upkeep it. I won't be joining the crowd anytime soon. Maybe 20 years down the line the trend might be back when I'm ready to go back natural. If not, pssh I'll just stand out on my own! Lol

Til Next Time. Xoxo, Shanz