Relaxer Stretch Guide: How To Maintain New Growth

          As women we share one common goal. We all want longer hair! Natural gals have it a bit easier in the hair growth process. For us relaxed girls, however, things get a little more complicated after 6-8weeks. I always found it hard to manage my new growth.  Being a Caribbean girl, I am a mixture of multiple races. My mixture has resulted in me having extremely thick 4B/4C hair (Heck! If 4D were an option I'd place myself in that category).  For many years I couldn't figure out what to do to better manage my new growth. Then one day it hit me like a light bulb moment. New growth is natural hair, natural hair needs moisture, so treat it like natural hair! I have since recently incorporated a few new techniques and even some natural products into my hair regimen to help manage my new growth. It's so simple that I can't even believe I didn't try them sooner.

Apply moisturizing conditioner
Moisture is the most important ingredient on a healthy hair journey. With that said, we have to keep in mind that our new growth, although new and unharmed by chemical, needs to be replenished with moisture as well. Ensure that you're using a moisturizing conditioner and not a protein conditioner. The new growth contains enough protein naturally that has not been broken down by chemicals. Simply section hair, apply conditioner directly to new growth (while conditioning the rest of the hair shaft), and comb through while its wet. The hair becomes softer and less prone to breakage when styling.

Apply moisturizer/ leave in

Personally, I apply leave-in conditioner and moisturizer as in my normal moisturize & seal routine. This may seem like a lot, but I'm pretty sure my hair thanks me every time I do it. You don't need to apply a lot depending on the amount of new growth. I simply section my hair into four and work the products into each section. I follow this up by moisturizing the rest of my hair shaft, combing and sealing the ends. Sometimes, I would apply a cream or curl custard for extra moisture and to elongate the curls. This product also helps in creating a defined braid out style.

Protect the line of demarcation

Apart from moisturizing your new growth, it's super important to protect the line of demarcation. The line of demarcation is where the new growth meets the relaxed hair. This is the most fragile part of the hair. This step is also essential as it helps in length retention. I apply an anti-breakage leave-in conditioner from root to end or from root to line of demarcation.

Hot oil treatment

Hot oil treatments are like the Holy Grail treatment for your hair. Not only does it repair split ends but it also stimulates the scalp to promote hair growth. Thus, it promotes thick and healthy new growth. And who doesn't want that right?  

Use detangler spray

Detangler spray helps so much when that new growth kicks in. Because we're working with two different textures of hair, it becomes a little harder to comb the hair. You just have to be more careful in the detangling process. I don't know how they do it, but detangling sprays just go on the hair and work its magic. Combing through your hair becomes a breeze. Keep in mind that you should be detangling from end to root to remove any possible knots throughout the hair shaft.

By using these tips, I've seen a tremendous improvement in the manageability of my hair. It's easier to comb and style. The comb simply glides through from root to end (after carefully detangling). I also experience much less breakage from the root. Happy to say I'm on the right track in my healthy hair journey. I guess the next step is length retention...


Til Next Time. Xoxo, Shanz

Hair Tip: How To Protect Your Hair Under Braids

        Recently, I have been sporting a variety of cornrow braided styles. It's my go-to look for Summer Sixteen (2016). It works great as a protective style as its gentle on my edges and keeps my hair out of my face. However, even though I wear protective styles, I find it very important that my hair itself doesn't get neglected. Personally, I take down my braids once a week and do a full wash routine. Here are a few tips to consider when wearing protective styles like cornrow braids. Also note that some of these tips are adaptable for other protective hairstyles. 

  1. Oil your scalp. It's important to oil the exposed scalp areas in between cornrows. It prevents and soothes itching, along with other benefits of oiling the scalp. I use a mix of Jamaican Black Castor Oil and Jojoba Oil for this step. Other carrier oils like Coconut Oil, Avocado Oil and Olive Oil work just as well. Each of these oils are known for their anti-fungal properties which help fight dry scalp and dandruff. For added benefit, I cover my head in a plastic cap for 5-10 minutes after massaging in the oil. This helps to open up the cuticles thus allowing the oil to penetrate the scalp.

   

  2. Oil your edges. Along with oiling your scalp, it's also essential to apply some oil to your edges. Yeah I know how you'll ladies love to slay those edges! Keep in mind, however, all the gels and edge control can actually be detrimental to your hair. Hence, applying a bit of oil along your hairline helps prevent possible damage. Oils such as Jamaican Black Castor Oil and Coconut Oil help stimulate the scalp and promote hair growth. Its a great way of regrowing your edges whilst wearing protective styles. 

 3. Moisturize your hair. The good thing about cornrow braids is that your ends are well protected even though your hair isn't exactly hidden (like under a wig or sew in). At the same time, you should pay special attention to the hair that is exposed. When wearing cornrows, I like to apply moisturizer or leave in directly on top of the braids, all the way down the length of my hair. I stop just before my hair ends and the braid weave continues. This helps to keep my hair well conditioned, soft and shiny in the hairstyle.

  4. Use a spray. Using any sort of moisturizing mist, braid sheen or anti-itch spray helps a great deal with this protective hairstyle. It provides shine to your hair and the braid weave which keeps the style looking fresh. The spray also acts as a sealant after applying moisturizer (or leave in conditioner). The anti-itch spray provides added benefits with the scalp oil massage. I often simply spray water onto my scalp to relieve itching. and to help easily spread the thicker oils like Jamaican Black Castor Oil.

  5. Wrap your hair. One of the most important habits in hair care is to wrap your hair at night. Its especially necessary for this particular style as it keeps the hairstyle neat, as well as, locks in moisture and protects your hair from frizz. Wrapping your hair is not limited to night time. You can keep your style wrapped in your down time or while doing chores, etc. 

        There you go! Five simple tips for keeping your hair maintained in protective styles like cornrow braids. These tips can be used daily or as needed depending on your hair. The main goal is to still have healthy hair once the style is taken down.  And remember, each of these tips can be easily adapted for box braids, twists, and even wigs or weaves.


Til Next Time. Xoxo, Shanz

Protective Hairstyle: Cornrow Braids

Cornrow braids. Kim Kardashian braids. Two braids. Boxer braids. French braids. Canerows. Call it what you want, there's no doubt that this style is so in style now. Everyone from relaxed to natural to naturally straight has been trying out this hairstyle. 

It's not a new style as it has been worn in the black community for Centuries. More recently, however, its been popularized by the Kardashian clan and other known celebrities. Social media sites like Instagram and Pinterest seem to be flooded with pictures of girls in this braided look.

It's an excellent summer style. It protects your hair from environmental aggressors like wind or sun. It also keeps it off your neck away from sweat damage. It also just looks great with any summer outfit. This style can be achieved with or without extensions. Personally, I like the length I get with the extensions. Either way, its a fun and easy style to wear. 

This is definitely my go-to hairstyle for the summer.

Til Next Time. Xoxo, Shanz


Also see: How to Protect Your Hair Under Braids
 http://letshairthis.blogspot.com/2016/07/hair-tip-how-to-protect-your-hair-under.html?m=1

PRODUCT REVIEW: Shea Moisture Yucca & Plantain Anti-Breakage Strengthening Styling Milk

       

           When I bought the Shea Moisture Yucca & Plantain Anti-Breakage Strengthening Styling Milk, I actually intended to buy the Shea Moisture Yucca & Baobab Thickening Growth Milk. I know right, they sound kind of similar (just wait until you see the packaging). At the time my ends were very thin, fragile and breaking so easily. Hence, I wanted a product to thicken my ends and prevent breakage. I rushed in and out of the store in less than 5 minutes and only afterward realized I picked up the wrong product. I immediately started researching and comparing the ingredients, and studied the results of other users. Consequently, I decided to give the product a chance. By the way, it so turned out that I really just needed a trim to rid of those extremely dead ends (which I did get a week after). 

          Now, let's get to the review on Shea Moisture Yucca & Plantain Anti-Breakage Strengthening Styling Milk. Yeah, its a really long name with some really weird ingredients.  The label also mentions that it contains Baobab Oil and Cilantro Extract. The product is specifically for frizzy, split and breaking hair. It claims to improve thickness, strength and manageability of hair whilst reducing frizz and providing moisture and shine. In the Caribbean, Yucca, more commonly known as Cassava, is a strong source of carbohydrates. Plantain ,which is rich in B vitamins, is also somewhat a staple due to our Spanish influence. However, the Baobab Oil and Cilantro Extract really threw me over the fence. One sounds like an African language and the other is a seasoning herb. Nonetheless, Shea Moisture claims that they boost shine and fortify strength. It did not disturb me at all that the product contained ingredients that I was accustomed eating. I have great confidence in Shea Moisture products. I'm also aware of the benefits of Yucca and Plantain on the body and I'm a huge believer of what's good for the body is good for my hair.

                Pros                

          On the bright side, this strengthening milk absorbs very well into my hair. It literally soaks it up as if it was dehydrated. I apply it from root to tip and gently finger detangle. I tried it on dampened hair, as well as, dry, flat ironed hair and the results were exactly the same. My hair adores this product! On that note, I should mention that I have low porosity hair. This product being a "milk" provides a more lightweight feel as opposed to hair lotions or creams, hence it is more easily absorbed.  I cannot speak for other porosity levels but I can imagine that it should also work well once followed by a moisturize and seal. The anti-breakage milk also stays true to its claim that it can mix and blend with other products. I use it as a leave-in conditioner before I moisturize and seal. It neither weighs down nor disappears under layers of other products. It provides a strong base in my moisturizing regime. Altogether, my hair feels soft, yet strong and very manageable. 

                Cons               

          On the contrary, like most Shea Moisture products, it is on the pricey side. Although I seem to have no control when it comes to hair products, I will admit it is quite expensive for a moisturizer or leave-in conditioner. However, it was totally worth the price because it really, really works well. I'm glad it does to be honest because it's not so easy to return products at beauty supply stores down here. Secondly, the scent is highly (and I mean Highly!) perfumated. It has a very sweet scent almost like  a laundry detergent. The scent does tend to linger even after products are layered over it. Personally, I don't mind it but if you're not into really sweet scents then you may be deterred. 

           As you can tell, I love this product! Even with its high price and overly sweet smell, I continue to use this product regularly. It has quickly made its way to my Top 5 list of hair products. And definitely its secured a place in my daily and weekly hair regimen. I look forward to having healthier, stronger hair. So long are the days of my ends breaking off every time I touch them. Thanks Shea Moisture ;)

Til Next Time. Xoxo, Shanz

PRODUCT REVIEW: Shea Moisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen, Grow & Restore Treatment Masque

       

          Ok, can I just start by saying Shea Moisture takes the award for longest product names ever? Like seriously, I got tired just from typing the title. I discovered the Shea Moisture JBCO Strengthen, Grow & Restore Treatment Masque from the lifestyle and hair vlogger, Charisse Christine. The product was featured in a video entitled "Charisse's Relaxed Hair Must-Haves". I loved how healthy and strong her relaxed hair looked so I was convinced I needed that product in my regimen. It was the first purchase I had ever made from the Shea Moisture brand. Shea Moisture, being a brand associated with natural hair, claims that this JBCO Strengthen, Grow & Restore line is also suitable for chemically processed, colour treated and heat styled hair. The masque specifically contains Shea Butter, Peppermint and Keratin which each aids in the strengthening, growth and restoration of hair follicles. I have very few complaints about this product. As a matter of fact, I quite like it as you'll soon discover.

     Cons     

          Shea Moisture's Strengthen, Grow & Restore masque does contain proteins; namely Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein and Hydrolyzed Keratin; one of which is in the first ten list of ingredients. Because my hair is so sensitive to protein, I found it best not to use this product every week. When I used it once a week for a month, my hair became quite stringy and sticky on the third week's washing. Thus, I use it every other week or once a month in alternation with a moisturizing conditioner. There is also the concern of Shea Moisture's high prices. This product undoubtedly falls into the pricey category. However, it is totally worth the price if you're willing to spend the money.

     Pros     

          Now we've reached the part where I'd like to fast forward to the end. And I mean that in the best way possible. Every draft I've written thus far just sounds so redundant. What I'm really trying to say is, This Product Actually Produces Every Benefit It Claims! Let's make a checklist:

• replenish moisture and soften while strengthening hair? Yes!
• helps promote hair growth by supporting hair's elasticity? Yes!!
• reduces the appearance of breakage? Oh yes!
• and Shedding? Yesss!
• stimulates the scalp for an invigorating experience? Ohh yes!
• leaves hair soft, manageable and shiny? Uhmm, how do you say.... YES!

It's all there already. I literally could not state it any better. I have experienced every single benefit stated by this product and I'm totally satisfied with it. It has improved the health of my hair by a ten-fold. The Shea Moisture JBCO Treatment Masque is hands down one of the best deep conditioners to ever grace my hair. In terms of its deep treatment qualities, it works well with and without heat. For those with low porosity hair, however, it is recommended to use heat. Otherwise, it can be left on the hair for up to an hour and equal results should be noticed.

As previously mentioned, the price of this product is high. On the plus side, however, one container lasts a very long time. I've had my treatment masque for about a year so far and its just now finishing. A little (or even a lot) definitely goes a long way with this conditioner. The cool thing about it is that, even after heavily scooping it out, by the following use it magically appears to have an even surface. It makes you feel like the product is never ending. Quite frankly, it might as well be, given the length of time it lasts. It also has an amazing scent. And you know I'm hard to please when it comes to scents. I would describe it as a warm, custard-like scent. It definitely smells edible (but in a good way). The scent even lasts long after you've dried and styled your hair. I almost fall in love with my hair every time I catch a whiff of it.

I am incredibly pleased with this deep treatment masque from Shea Moisture. I'm also encouraged to try other products from their Jamaican Black Castor Oil line. My hair responds very well to this Strengthen, Grow & Restore masque. I definitely look forward to a long, healthy hair journey with Shea Moisture.

Til Next Time. Xoxo, Shanz


Also see: PRODUCT REVIEW: Shea Moisture Yucca & Plantain Anti-Breakage Strengthening Styling Milk http://letshairthis.blogspot.com/2016/06/product-review-shea-moisture-yucca.html

Protective Hairstyle: Marley Twists

This was my first time trying Marley Braids. It was a huge change for me but I ended up really liking it. I was 4 months post relaxer at the time and in great need of a protective yet cool hairstyle. It was Carnival time in Trinidad and I wanted to look anything but basic. So I had my friends vote between black and burgundy braids, and well, we can obviously see the clear winner.

Initially, I intended to do box braids, however, there were no stores selling the colour in X-pression Braid Synthetic Hair. I ended up finding the brand Janet Noir Afro Twist Braid in the colour, BURG. It is Synthetic Kankelon hair with a human hair feel. I used 6 packs to complete my entire head. 

This was a great protective style that lasted 2 months. I did wash and condition my hair whilst in the style, and moisturized using a spray bottle. On the take down, I was pleased to notice that my hair was quite soft and well moisturized. I did however experience a great deal of shedding but that was due to the lengthy time with the style.

STORY TIME: Inversion Method FAIL

       Like most women out there, if not all, I want longer hair. And I want it Now! Realistically, I know that's not possible because my hair grows about half an inch every two months. Since I never remember to take my vitamins, hair vitamins like Biotin was out of the question. Therefore, I decided the next best option would be the inversion method. I had been interested in this method for a couple years but never got around to trying it. It's fast and easy and claims to bring guaranteed results of an inch of growth in just 7 days.  So I did my research, watched tons of YouTube videos and when I got the gist of it, eventually tried it. I used pure, unrefined coconut oil to massage into my scalp for about 1-2 minutes. After this, I flipped my head over and held this position for exactly 4 minutes as recommended. I timed it to ensure that I didn't cross the time limit (as that can have harmful effects). Then, I slowly rose up and went about my day. This process was repeated for 7 days consecutively. 

When I tried the inversion method I was already 11 weeks post relaxer and had an inch of new growth. I had hoped that the extra inch of growth would give a decent increase in length at my next relaxer (which I planned to be in week 15). On the 7th day of the treatment, I followed the same procedure and waited until day 8 to properly check the results. Upon washing my hair on the 8th day I discovered, to my dismay, that I had no more than the growth of 11 weeks post relaxer. I measured with a ruler and even sent pictures to a friend but both proved I still only had 1 inch of new growth. I was quite disappointed since I had such faith in the method. It has been 2 weeks now since I attempted the inversion method. My hair has grown an extra half inch, however I cannot confirm if it was due to that. Typically, those who have done the inversion method saw the results of an inch of growth by the final day. Determined to know where I fell short, I considered my possible limitations (a step to which I thank my years of writing lab reports). 

First of all, I critiqued the action of flipping over my head. Some days I would just bend my head down (as if in deep prayer), whereas other days I'd sit at the edge of the bed and completely bend over. The success of this method weighs heavily on the ability of the blood to flow toward the scalp. Therefore, I recommend properly "inverting" your head to ensure proper blood flow to the scalp. Secondly, the oil was not heated prior to application. I'll admit I overlooked this step during my research as the massage should help warm the oil on the scalp. Also, some videos I watched did not specify the need to heat the oil. However, I highly recommend doing so as the warm oil helps promote hair growth by penetrating the scalp (as experienced by hot oil treatments). Lastly, the massage technique has great influence on the effects of this method. Because my scalp tends to be quite itchy, I sometimes unconsciously substituted gentle massaging with light scratching (and that's a big No-No!)There are many videos online on how to properly massage the scalp so I recommend checking them out before attempting this method. 

Although the inversion method was unsuccessful for me, I would like to try it again. Because I have seen positive results on others, I want to improve on my mistakes in attempt to achieve similar results. I do plan to do a relaxer pretty soon so I would have to wait about a month to try this method again. If you plan on doing the inversion method, please consider all the steps carefully. Unlike my experience, I hope it works out well for you. 

Til Next Time. Xoxo, Shanz