Relaxer Stretch Guide: How To Maintain New Growth

          As women we share one common goal. We all want longer hair! Natural gals have it a bit easier in the hair growth process. For us relaxed girls, however, things get a little more complicated after 6-8weeks. I always found it hard to manage my new growth.  Being a Caribbean girl, I am a mixture of multiple races. My mixture has resulted in me having extremely thick 4B/4C hair (Heck! If 4D were an option I'd place myself in that category).  For many years I couldn't figure out what to do to better manage my new growth. Then one day it hit me like a light bulb moment. New growth is natural hair, natural hair needs moisture, so treat it like natural hair! I have since recently incorporated a few new techniques and even some natural products into my hair regimen to help manage my new growth. It's so simple that I can't even believe I didn't try them sooner.

Apply moisturizing conditioner
Moisture is the most important ingredient on a healthy hair journey. With that said, we have to keep in mind that our new growth, although new and unharmed by chemical, needs to be replenished with moisture as well. Ensure that you're using a moisturizing conditioner and not a protein conditioner. The new growth contains enough protein naturally that has not been broken down by chemicals. Simply section hair, apply conditioner directly to new growth (while conditioning the rest of the hair shaft), and comb through while its wet. The hair becomes softer and less prone to breakage when styling.

Apply moisturizer/ leave in

Personally, I apply leave-in conditioner and moisturizer as in my normal moisturize & seal routine. This may seem like a lot, but I'm pretty sure my hair thanks me every time I do it. You don't need to apply a lot depending on the amount of new growth. I simply section my hair into four and work the products into each section. I follow this up by moisturizing the rest of my hair shaft, combing and sealing the ends. Sometimes, I would apply a cream or curl custard for extra moisture and to elongate the curls. This product also helps in creating a defined braid out style.

Protect the line of demarcation

Apart from moisturizing your new growth, it's super important to protect the line of demarcation. The line of demarcation is where the new growth meets the relaxed hair. This is the most fragile part of the hair. This step is also essential as it helps in length retention. I apply an anti-breakage leave-in conditioner from root to end or from root to line of demarcation.

Hot oil treatment

Hot oil treatments are like the Holy Grail treatment for your hair. Not only does it repair split ends but it also stimulates the scalp to promote hair growth. Thus, it promotes thick and healthy new growth. And who doesn't want that right?  

Use detangler spray

Detangler spray helps so much when that new growth kicks in. Because we're working with two different textures of hair, it becomes a little harder to comb the hair. You just have to be more careful in the detangling process. I don't know how they do it, but detangling sprays just go on the hair and work its magic. Combing through your hair becomes a breeze. Keep in mind that you should be detangling from end to root to remove any possible knots throughout the hair shaft.

By using these tips, I've seen a tremendous improvement in the manageability of my hair. It's easier to comb and style. The comb simply glides through from root to end (after carefully detangling). I also experience much less breakage from the root. Happy to say I'm on the right track in my healthy hair journey. I guess the next step is length retention...


Til Next Time. Xoxo, Shanz

Hair Tip: How To Protect Your Hair Under Braids

        Recently, I have been sporting a variety of cornrow braided styles. It's my go-to look for Summer Sixteen (2016). It works great as a protective style as its gentle on my edges and keeps my hair out of my face. However, even though I wear protective styles, I find it very important that my hair itself doesn't get neglected. Personally, I take down my braids once a week and do a full wash routine. Here are a few tips to consider when wearing protective styles like cornrow braids. Also note that some of these tips are adaptable for other protective hairstyles. 

  1. Oil your scalp. It's important to oil the exposed scalp areas in between cornrows. It prevents and soothes itching, along with other benefits of oiling the scalp. I use a mix of Jamaican Black Castor Oil and Jojoba Oil for this step. Other carrier oils like Coconut Oil, Avocado Oil and Olive Oil work just as well. Each of these oils are known for their anti-fungal properties which help fight dry scalp and dandruff. For added benefit, I cover my head in a plastic cap for 5-10 minutes after massaging in the oil. This helps to open up the cuticles thus allowing the oil to penetrate the scalp.

   

  2. Oil your edges. Along with oiling your scalp, it's also essential to apply some oil to your edges. Yeah I know how you'll ladies love to slay those edges! Keep in mind, however, all the gels and edge control can actually be detrimental to your hair. Hence, applying a bit of oil along your hairline helps prevent possible damage. Oils such as Jamaican Black Castor Oil and Coconut Oil help stimulate the scalp and promote hair growth. Its a great way of regrowing your edges whilst wearing protective styles. 

 3. Moisturize your hair. The good thing about cornrow braids is that your ends are well protected even though your hair isn't exactly hidden (like under a wig or sew in). At the same time, you should pay special attention to the hair that is exposed. When wearing cornrows, I like to apply moisturizer or leave in directly on top of the braids, all the way down the length of my hair. I stop just before my hair ends and the braid weave continues. This helps to keep my hair well conditioned, soft and shiny in the hairstyle.

  4. Use a spray. Using any sort of moisturizing mist, braid sheen or anti-itch spray helps a great deal with this protective hairstyle. It provides shine to your hair and the braid weave which keeps the style looking fresh. The spray also acts as a sealant after applying moisturizer (or leave in conditioner). The anti-itch spray provides added benefits with the scalp oil massage. I often simply spray water onto my scalp to relieve itching. and to help easily spread the thicker oils like Jamaican Black Castor Oil.

  5. Wrap your hair. One of the most important habits in hair care is to wrap your hair at night. Its especially necessary for this particular style as it keeps the hairstyle neat, as well as, locks in moisture and protects your hair from frizz. Wrapping your hair is not limited to night time. You can keep your style wrapped in your down time or while doing chores, etc. 

        There you go! Five simple tips for keeping your hair maintained in protective styles like cornrow braids. These tips can be used daily or as needed depending on your hair. The main goal is to still have healthy hair once the style is taken down.  And remember, each of these tips can be easily adapted for box braids, twists, and even wigs or weaves.


Til Next Time. Xoxo, Shanz